On Jalan Hasanuddin, a little north of the Dewi Hotel, and on the other side of the road is Lesahan Taliwang Muslimah Jimran, which does, you guessed it, taliwang chicken in a clean streetside setting. A little back towards the Dewi, also on the other side of the road, is Warung Sate Samantha which does, yes right again, sate.
Heading south on the same road, you’ll first reach Cipta Sari, a small cafe which would be a lot better if it did coffee. Back on the same side of the road as the Dewi, Aneka Rasa Jaya is a large Chinese restaurant doing typical Chinese fare with a good range of seafood. Note the servings can be pretty generous. Aneka Rasa Jaya also serves beer.
Continuing south down Jalan Hasanuddin you’ll reach a turn to the east. On the south side of the road are a bunch of small warungs doing simple one-plate dishes like nasi campur, gado gado and so on. This cluster of spots was our go-to place for breakfast in Sumbawa Besar. Another cluster of warungs run south from the entrance to Pasar Seketeng on Jalan Yos Sudarso. This is a far longer walk from the hotels, so we settled on the closer gaggle mentioned above.
Heading north from the market and still on Jalan Yos Sudarso, keep walking north past the small army base and you’ll reach another group of Taliwang joints. Warung Taliwang Muchsin came highly recommended by friends, but was closed when we wandered by. It is attached to some peculiar museum thing which, while also closed, looked interesting. If you’re all Taliwanged out, a little to the south between here and the army base is Mandala 2 Masakan Padang, for all your Padang needs. Jalan Melati, a shortcut which runs east west from around here, will take you through to Jalan Hasanuddin and back to the hotels.
Stay on Jalan Yos Sudarso though and head north, and it eventually meets Hasanuddin. On your right you’ll see Taman Mangga, a small park that hosts fun fairs and the like occasionally. Just after it, take a right down Jalan Mangga, and you’ll find Bale Music Sumbawa which does real coffee in a modern, social setting and which has live music in the evening.
Another interesting and social spot is Dog Town Rock Bar Cafe, which gets going in the evening and does coffee and rock. You’ll find it back down in the south of town on Jalan Hasanuddin, perhaps 200 metres south of Cipta Bakery. Keep an eye out for the large eagle wings street art on the wall and the bamboo rustic set up just back from the road.