Jean-Pierre Gaston himself will most likely be there to welcome you, and stands always ready for a chat or to help out with your choice. He only lists the things he loves, so he knows of what he speaks. The short and easy menu is up on the wall, and includes classics such as escargot from Burgundy ($12), beef cheek casserole ($12), andouillettes de Troyes (if you need to ask, you're probably not ready to eat this, $14.50), and foie gras de canard ($15.50). There is also plenty of beef, in many manifestations, including one of the heartiest and most filling carpaccios ($12.50) we've ever had. It's pricy, but when so many of the ingredients are imported, that's hard to avoid. Incidentally, if Gaston offers you a drink for guessing which young schoolboy he is in one of the pictures on the wall, he's second from the left. You can thank us later.