Best nasi campur in town
Jalan Raya Kedewatan, Ubud
T: T: (0361) 974 795
This out of the way, long-running classic warung set in a family compound serves up just one dish — nasi campur ayam — and does it so well it draws in celebrities, locals and domestic tourists alike — with a trickle of foreign travellers who can be bothered to make the trek here from downtown Ubud.
We love one-dish places and spotless Nasi Ayam Kedewatan serves up just was it says on the can — a plate of Balinese-style nasi campur with a focus on chicken. Expect to get sate lilit, or minced chicken on a stick, ayam betutu, or chicken roasted in a complex Balinese spice paste, crisp-fried chicken skin, a fresh vegetable and coconut salad (urap), half of a boiled egg, crunchy roasted peanuts and an excellent, fiery sambal matah.
Served on a banana leaf, the dishes we had were flavourful and cooked with soul — and it’s a steal at just 20,000 rupiah (plus 4,000 rupiah for an iced tea, 10,000 rupiah for avocado juice).
You can also order your meal served in individual dishes, with rice separately, but it seems to be standard here for everyone to just grab an individual plate of the nasi campur. There are no menus aside from one on the wall, with a short drinks selection — ice tea, orange juice, young coconut water are among the offerings — with a couple of Indonesian desserts as well (es buah, es campur and es teler).
Photographs of Ibu Mangku with one of Sukarno’s daughters — who still pops by, we’re told — and various other local celebrities who have dined here adorn the walls.
Sit in the main restaurant, or grab one of the bales in the pretty, statue-dotted gardens, where you can take your shoes off and curl up next to an old-style table.
To get here, head along Jalan Raya Sanggingan from Ubud and take a right — it’s a few hundred metres along on the right. Buses of domestic tourists tend to arrive at 13:00, so get here earlier to avoid being stuck in a crowd.