Khao Muu Daeng Si Morakod

Khao Muu Daeng Si Morakod

Bangkok's best khao muu daeng?

More on Chinatown

Khao muu daeng, or red pork with rice, is a staple Chinese-Thai street dish available all over Bangkok and beyond. The rich, porky flavours will be especially welcomed by those who shy from intense spice, pungent smells or “odd” animal parts, but only when they’re done well. In Chinatown, Khao Muu Daeng Si Morakod does an exceptional version of this street food mainstay.

Travelfish says:
Another busy day.

Another busy day.

Tucked down a bustling side street near Hualamphong train station in Chinatown’s far eastern reaches, family-run Si Morakod has been going strong for decades. The open-fronted eatery has a classic Chinatown atmosphere, with a twinkling Chinese shrine, black-and-white photos of ancestors and utilitarian tables where office workers and old folks find a seat wherever they can. Food is prepared in a makeshift kitchen at the front of the restaurant, allowing diners to observe the magic as it unfolds.

We usually avoid khao muu daeng because the often MSG-laden sauce is usually too sweet, and the typically store-bought roasted red pork too chewy. At Si Morakod, on the other hand, everything is prepared from scratch using recipes and methods that have been handed down for generations. Before even taking a bite, the difference is obvious thanks to heavenly smells and a crowd of loyal customers.

Sneak peak at the pork master.

Sneak peak at the pork master.

Five-spice marinated pork shoulder (muu daeng) and slabs of pork belly are slow-roasted over a charcoal grill that renders it melt-in-the-mouth tender and a bit smoky. Generous helpings are placed over a mound of steamed rice along with house-made kun chiang Chinese sausage that’s less sweet, more savoury than what you’ll usually find.

Then comes a rich and complex sauce, the mouth-watering product of boiling pig and chicken bones along with Chinese herbs and spices in a huge pot for several hours. Textural variety is added by way of fresh cucumbers and a whole duck egg, hard-boiled just long enough to keep the yoke from running. Throw on some pickled chillies for a hint of spicy and sour, and this everyday dish becomes a 40-baht delicacy.

That's the stuff.

That’s the stuff.

Nearly every diner comes specifically for the khao muu daeng, which can be ordered only with muu daeng or along with the pork belly, sausage and egg — or any combo of the above. Muu krob (crackling pork skin) can be added for some crunch. There’s no English menu but the efficient staff will assume you want everything unless you say (or point) otherwise. Just make sure they don’t leave out the prik nam som (pickled chillies); they really help to round out the flavours.

The shop also does a light bitter melon soup to compliment the rich khao muu daeng. If you want an appetiser, a neighbouring footpath vendor grills up tasty pork satay that he’ll run straight to your table. For dessert, you’ll find an inviting little coffee shop that sells house-made ice cream in flavours like durian, coconut and Thai iced tea, right across the street.

Travel info:
To reach Khao Muu Daeng Si Morakod, catch the MRT subway to Hua Lamphong station (we mean the subway station, not the neighbouring regular train station) and take the stairs at exit 1. Once outside, walk straight (west) for a few steps, then bear left before crossing Mahapruetharam road to reach the bridge that spans the canal. Take a right immediately after the bridge, then keep left and take an almost immediate left onto Mittraphap Road. Soi Sukorn 1 will be the first left, and the restaurant is a short walk down on the right (look for the lime green exterior walls). It makes a perfect lunch stop before or after checking out the largest solid gold statue in the world at nearby Wat Traimit.

Contact details for Khao Muu Daeng Si Morakod

Address: 80-82 Soi Sukorn 1, Chinatown, Bangkok

T: (081) 567  9006, (081) 816 9774 

Coordinates (for GPS): 100º30'52.88" E, 13º44'13.38" N
See position in Apple or Google Maps: Apple Maps | Google Maps

Reviewed by

David Luekens first came to Thailand in 2005 when Thai friends from his former home of Burlington, Vermont led him on a life-changing trip. Based in Thailand since 2011, he spends much of his time eating in Bangkok street markets and island hopping the Andaman Sea.

Browse hotels on Agoda


Provided by Travelfish partner Agoda. Prefer Booking? Click here.


Our top 10 places to eat and drink around Chinatown

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Double Dogs Tea Room

A Chinatown oasis

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Eating at night in Chinatown

An Asian food lover's dream

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Hua Seng Hong Restaurant

Excellent roasted pork

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Jay Ben Noodle

Pick up truck magic

 

Khanom Jeeb Wat Yuan
Khanom Jeeb Wat Yuan

Time tested

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Khao Phra Ram Long Song Mae Akarawan

Three generations must be doing something right

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Khao Thom 24

Cheap, filling and always open

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Kuay-tiao Lod Phra Thep

Phenomenal sauce

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Nahim Cafe and Handcraft

Need a llama and a cuppa?

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Odean Crab Noodle

Delicious affordable seafood

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
R&L Seafood and T&K Seafood

Red shirts or green shirts?

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Royal India Restaurant

Good food and air-con

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Sweet Time

Sweet-tooth heaven

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Thai sweets at The Old Siam Plaza

Give Thai sweets a try

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
The Canton House

Solid dim sums

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Toney Restaurant

Great find

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Viva & Aviv The River

Flash drinks riverside

 

No pic at the moment — Sorry!
Yoo Fish Ball

The best balls in town?