Phenomenal khao muu daeng
Consisting of a few types of pork served over rice with a hard-boiled egg and gravy, khao muu daeng is a Chinese-Thai dish served at streetside kitchens all over Thailand. While we’ve always found it to hit the spot for a quick and cheap bite, the version served at Khao Muu Daeng Pathom Lert Rod is worth heading across town for.
Located off Rangnam Road in the street-food-heavy Victory Monument area, the footpath kitchen has a half-dozen dented tables set up under yellow umbrellas. Locals flock here for the signature dish, and it’s easy to taste why.
The muu daeng (roasted “red” pork) is tender and salty enough to add serious flavour to the white rice -- it’s vastly superior to the rubbery strips found at most khao muu daeng shops. You also get khun chiang (Chinese sausage) that’s not overly sweet, and proper muu grob (deep-fried pork belly) with addictively crispy skin complimenting inner layers of rich fat and tender meat.
Placed on a big mound of rice, these three types of pork are topped off with half a hard-boiled egg and an unusually light and not-too-sweet gravy that moistens the whole dish without stealing the show. Grab a roasted chilli tossed in sea salt from a bowl provided at every table and you’ve got a plate in which every component plays its part like the members of Manchester United on their best day. Pork lovers, you need to try this dish!
If you’d like a little something on the side, the welcoming staffers also whip up mild bowls of krapao pla, a thick Chinese-style soup featuring fried fish maw. Both that and the khao muu daeng go for 40 baht.
The kitchen is easy to miss while walking down to the west end of Rangnam Road -- look for strips of red pork hanging behind glass at the front of an unmarked side lane, directly across from Top Charoen Optical and a few steps west of Kuang Sea Foods. Ordering a second portion is tempting, but you might want to save room for the terrific khao niao moon with durian and other Thai sweets served from another makeshift stall across the street.
Address: West end of Rangnam Rd (across from Top Charoen Optical), Bangkok
T: (089) 115 1012 , (086) 604 0020
Coordinates (for GPS): 100º32'31.11" E, 13º45'32.8" N
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David Luekens first came to Thailand in 2005 when Thai friends from his former home of Burlington, Vermont led him on a life-changing trip. Based in Thailand since 2011, he spends much of his time eating in Bangkok street markets and island hopping the Andaman Sea.
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