Perhaps it was the long, bone-jarring trip to get here, and any nice beach would have had the same effect, but we had a good night’s sleep and our reaction the next morning on second viewing was just the same.

Regionally, Tarimbang is East Sumba, but geographically it’s almost smack bang in the middle of the southern coast. It can be reached from East or West Sumba by taking a sharp turn south, just east of Lewa, the town halfway along the main east-west highway. Roads start off well, then get progressively worse as you head south. The gruelling 42 kilometre stretch from the turnoff takes about three hours. But it is scenic. We have heard that there are plans for improving this road soon. It may be a mixed blessing. Hopefully easier access won’t turn paradise into a parking lot.

Tarimbang’s wide bay boasts a vast and pristine white-sand beach, edged by tropical forest and defined by imposing white cliffs and curling, perfect waves. Close to the shore is good for swimming and snorkelling over a small sheltered reef, but most come here for the surf and the famed Miller’s Right. The waves are challenging and only suitable for intermediate to experienced surfers. The main surf season is March to October. Expect accommodation to be limited during ... Travelfish members only (Full text is around 600 words.)