Think of your ideal tropical paradise. Once you have that in mind, if it includes white-sand beaches fringed by palm trees, turquoise water so bright it stings your eyes, warm weather all year round, hardly any tourists and just enough decent accommodation to ensure you don’t have to pitch a tent then the islands of Karimunjawa are your paradise.
Located about 90km off the north coast of Central Java, the idyllic group of 27 tropical islands that form the Karimunjawa Islands is one of those places that is amazing to visit, yet has few visitors. During non-peak times it is possible to go a full day without seeing another foreigner and this is probably due to the fact that it require visitors to Java to deviate from the normal route through the island which generally goes Jakarta, Bandung, Yogyakarta, Bromo, Bali. But changing up that standard itinerary really allows you to access some amazing places such as these islands.
The main island is large for a remote outpost in the middle of the ocean, measuring about 25km long and 10km wide, with much of the southern section covered in jungle. Sandwiched between the jungle and the southern tip is the island’s main town called Karimunjawa
. This is where the vast majority of visitors stay, although it is possible to stay in a floating hotel in the middle of the ocean and at a high-end resort on one of the far flung islands.
Hey, someone left this boat behind!
The main form of accommodation in Karimunjawa
however, is the homestay, where you are set up in a room in a family’s house and can elect to either eat meals with them or purchase them yourself at one of the local warungs. The bathroom is shared in these homestays, of course, but all of them we inspected were clean and often reserved solely for guests, meaning you may be the only user of it anyway.
Where the bloody hell are you?
The main activities around these parts are snorkelling, diving and cruising around on a motorbike
to explore the innumerable deserted white-sand beaches. Snorkelling is usually done by either arranging a boat through your guesthouse or heading down to the dock to find a local fisherman willing to take you out. The going rate is 300,000 rupiah for a five-hour boat ride to the outlying islands of your choice plus 30,000 rupiah per person for snorkelling gear. A variety of dive shops in town offer countless different options for diving on the nearby reefs. On our snorkelling trip we were a little disappointed by the coral bleaching
which is underway across vast tracts of the reefs.
Just another stunning Karimunjawa sunset.
Because the main island is so large, a great way to explore is by motorbike, which costs 75,000 rupiah per day to hire — more than you’d pay on the mainland, but worth every single rupiah as the far flung areas of the island have some spectacular beaches. The road is paved all the way to the north of the island, but most of the beaches are down the end of dirt tracks which are signposted but still easy to miss.
Our favourite of these beaches is Tanjung Gelam
, a mere five kilometres from Karimunjawa town. Around Pantai Barakuda
is a turtle conservation centre where you can observe staff going about their chores such as scrubbing baby turtles in order to remove slime. It’s fascinating stuff.
So is it worth the journey to get to the Karimunjawa Islands?
It all depends on what your definition of paradise is. Does this look like the sort of place you’d want to visit?
Like a bus, but on water.
Electricity on the island is only available at night, switching on at 17:30 and shutting off at 06:00. There is the occasional surge of power during the day, but it can’t be relied upon. Of course, this affects hotel rooms with fans and air-con to the extent that rooms become incredibly hot during the day. The other effect is that there aren’t too many places in town with refrigeration, so grabbing a cold drink can be difficult.
and a police station
are located in the main town of Karimunjawa, the main ferry port is within walking distance of all the hotels and homestays, and internet services
are available at a number of shops. 3G internet
is also available on your phone through Telkomsel.