One of Indonesia's premier waves.

There are two things that put Maluk on the map: arguably one of the best waves in Indonesia, Super suck, and one of the largest open-pit mines in the world, the Batu Hijau copper-gold mine. The mine began producing ore in 2000, but has been dogged by ownership and operating issues. Its practice of dumping tailings from the mine at sea and waste rock in the jungle has attracted considerable controversy. At the time of writing in mid-2016, the mine was not operative, pending a buyout by a domestic conglomerate.

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Unlike the mine, the waves keep rolling in. Super suck remains one of Indonesia’s absolute premium waves and in surfing season it can be hard to get a bed here. Maluk is more than a wave town though. The municipal beach is a glorious white-sand crescent that stretches for more than a kilometre. Save some restaurants at the centre and a cluster of very sketchy karaoke bars towards the northwest end of the beach, it remains utterly deserted. Protected by an offshore reef, the beach is a good one for sunbathing and swimming, especially at the far northern end away from what little development there is on the beach.

Meet Maluk. : Stuart McDonald.
Meet Maluk. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Unfortunately, someone decided to build a retaining wall with a massive “Maluk Beach” sign right in the centre of the beach to “protect” the warungs that serve up cheap lunches and dinners. The wall is shoddily built (and poorly placed) and had already started to collapse, littering the beach in broken concrete when we passed through. One day, people will learn not to build on the dunes. For now, the rest of the beach is fine.

Maluk town itself has all the charm of a truck stop. Aside from the beachfront grazing zone, there are a few off-beach places to eat along with some decidedly grimy hotels. There is however a collection of excellent places to stay on the southern headland, a five- to 10-minute ride from downtown. From there, Maluk reveals its true beauty, with a staggering, almost Jurassic-like appearance as the waves roll in by the ... Travelfish members only (Full text is around 500 words.)

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