If you're headed between Lai Chau and Muong Lay, you have two options — the (relatively) flatter road leads through Phong To, but a more interesting and scenic route passes through the high mountain village of Sinh Ho, a kilometre above sea level. The entire road is now well-paved and easy to ride, and the winding ride up to the mountain top is a treat (unless you're on a bicycle).
It makes a lot more sense as a lunch stop than an overnight, but there is a decent hotel here if you want to spend the night. If you are eating lunch, you'll have to settle for the rather meagre pickings at the local rice joints. You might try the outdoor cafe/restaurant at the Thanh Binh Hotel, but budget a lot of time, as service is slow.
It's true that Sinh Ho doesn't get a lot of foreigner visitors, and the reception we got on arrival wasn't what we were used to. Few smiles, little interest, people going about their business and ignoring us completely. In other words, after having way too much attention paid to you at every step of your journey, Sinh Ho might be a welcome relief.
So, the face of Sinh Ho is a complex one, and it's also changing — the addition of the Thanh Binh Hotel three years ago to accommodation travellers has made Sinh Ho a destination, if only a destination in the making.
If you spend any amount of time here, really all that you can do (that we know of) is visit some of the local ethnic minority villages. The village of Xa De Phin was recommended to us — it's 5 km from the town centre along the road to Muong Lay, and after the turnoff onto a dirt road, it's another 5 km.
By Sarah Turner.