As most visitor attractions lie beneath its tranquil waters, this relatively arid strip in Karangasem regency is generally only popular with scuba divers and those seeking a quiet coastal getaway. Though relatively lightly touched by tourism, it’s still home to dozens of guesthouses, dive centres, beachfront cafes, a couple of yoga studios, and several resorts. Eighteen kilometres from Agung, this little industry was Bali’s hardest hit during the downturn that followed the eruptions. “But it was nothing compared to Covid,” says Wayan Lenet.
Born in the village of Amed, day by day 28–year–old Wayan walks up and down a one kilometre stretch of black volcanic sand and smooth rocks, selling small models of jukung—Bali’s iconic wooden outrigger. He purchases them for Rp.50,000 a piece and sells them on to tourists for up to Rp.200,000. For the last ten years he sold three to four a week, but he’s now struggling to make a single sale.
“I have an 18–month–old baby. When she grows up I don’t want her to be like me. I don’t want my daughter to depend on tourists to eat,” he says. “Right now we can only afford to eat rice. Just rice. I sell these boats to buy rice, not arak. I know that a future of tourism isn’t safe for us anymore, and I don’t think it will be for a long time.”
Log in to Travelfish
Please sign in to read the rest of this page. The full text is around 3,000 words.
Log in nowBecome a Travelfish member
Choose from a free two-day pass right through to a lifetime membership.
Find out moreAbout the author
Julia Winterflood
Julia Winterflood is a freelance writer, editor, and translator who has called Indonesia home since 2014. You can find her other pieces on Indonesian community responses to Covid19 and contact her via jwinterflood.com or on Twitter at @jwinterflood.
Reader comments
Tortravelgal
Posted on: 2020-09-16 15:00:15
I found this very interesting. Glad you were able to publish this.
merythapy
Posted on: 2020-09-16 02:41:22
This was fascinating. It was great to read something that actually leaves you with a feeling of hope. The Balinese remaking their tourism industry into something they’re in control of, and is what they want it to be, would be a fantastic success story.
faysie
Posted on: 2020-09-16 00:34:28
My friends have rented a villa in Candi Dasa for 10 years or more. They are involved in the community, volunteering for improvements and schooling as well as supporting three staff and local restaurants including Warung Agung. Recently their daughter had a fund raiser in Australia to assist the local families through supply of rice during lockdown.. Perhaps we in Australia, could adopt a family, like we support children in disadvantaged countries, until their government assists with manufacturing and agricultural incentives.
yeddich
Posted on: 2020-09-15 04:42:24
Let's hope the Balinese are successful.
fondo
Posted on: 2020-09-14 13:04:26
Thanks so much for the feature story to Julia and to Stuart for a resilient Travelfish
kris10dee
Posted on: 2020-09-13 00:08:10
Important, fantastic article - thank you! Living many years in Bali, I often refer to tourism here as 'the curse' even though we run a small tour company...how positive it would be if the Balinese were able to affect this warped and damaging perception the west places on their home!
somtam2000
Posted on: 2020-09-11 16:27:18
I’m a bit biased I guess, but I’m thrilled to be starting to run feature stories again on Travelfish, and I thought this one by Julia was a great way to kick the series off.
I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did.
Cheers
Stuart
4 other Travelfish long reads
Ko Pha Ngan: Thailand’s tropical refuge, then and now
Ko Pha Ngan is infamous for its long–running Full Moon Party, but there is a lot more to this idyllic, palm–fringed island than sound systems and teenagers imbibing cheap alcohol. Just 125 square kilometres in size, nestled between larger Ko Samui and smaller Ko Tao in the Gulf of Thailand, Ko Pha Ngan’s mountainous interior is drenched in evergreen rainforest, while its sandy beaches and coastal communities have been spawning subcultures from around the world for centuries. ... read more
A Malaysian quagmire
Lenggong in Perak State, Malaysia was gazetted as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012. Created by a meteorite, the valley’s archaeological discoveries span close to two million years and it is the location of one of the oldest human settlements outside of Africa. Almost a decade later, Covid19 is the icing on a cake of neglect which some locals are refusing to swallow. ... read more
The changing face of Mandalay
Early each morning Yin Yin Lwin walks the short distance from her Mandalay home to the moat surrounding the walls of the city’s Royal Palace, the grand structure that was built in the middle of the 19th century, and which remains the dominant edifice in Myanmar’s second biggest city. ... read more
Vietnam: Beyond the stereotype
As discerning visitors to Vietnam, we should look beyond the country’s outdated stereotypes and embrace its contemporary flair. ... read more