You can catch great sunsets and some incredible views of the surrounding hills, coated with dense trees as far as the eye can see, on the hills behind the air strip at the top of Sen Monorom.
Mayura Resort has built a special viewing platform at Phnom Dok Krokom Pagoda, and it's a lovely spot to unwind after a day trekking or swimming. To get there, head out of town towards Bou Sra, then turn left at the Total petrol station, around a kilometre beyond the end of the airstrip. The turn swings you around, so that you're virtually driving back in the same direction from which you came, and you take the second right turn, which swiftly brings you to a steep hill. You'll find the pagoda behind the second elephant-flanked gateway.
The first holds the remains of what must once have been a luxurious villa, but is now destroyed, with not much left but the entrance surrounded by shattered ceramics in the most stunning shade of green.
The pagoda was attended by some very friendly people. So we bought a scarf, and enjoyed the show as two elderly women played chase around the place. Sadly, we had arrived on an evening when the haze obliterated any chance of a decent sunset, but you may have better luck.
If you head back to the road, and keep going for another five kilometres, you'll come to another hill topped by the Samot Choeur pagoda, from where you'll see the so-called "sea forest", more hills as far as the eye can see carpeted with green. Good for the soul.
By Nicky Sullivan
Last updated on 22nd May, 2016.