Phsar Tuol Tom Poung (Russian Market)

Phsar Tuol Tom Poung (Russian Market)

A must-shop spot

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Despite the name, the one thing you can’t buy at Phnom Penh’s Russian Market is a Russian. But for almost everything else, this warren of stalls has it covered.

Travelfish says:

The market became popular with foreigners in the 1980s when most of its visitors were Soviets who lived in the area, hence the name. Since then, it’s become a regular on the Phnom Penh to-do list because, while it may be big, busy, hot and confusing to navigate, it’s also bursting with a huge profusion of goodies and makes for an excellent one–stop–stop for all your souvenir needs.

How big is your pack? : Stuart McDonald.
How big is your pack? Photo: Stuart McDonald

Located in the south of the city off Monivong Boulevard and Mao Tse Tung, the market is about a 15-minute tuk tuk ride from riverside. Before you dive in to the bustle of stalls, it’s worth noting which entrance you are using, especially if you hope to meet your driver again. Look for an easily recognisable landmark such as one of the big shops outside the market, or the fruit and vegetable stalls. That way, if you exit in a different direction, you can walk around the outside of the market until you get your bearings.

If you’re taking a moto or a tuk tuk there, you’ll most likely arrive on the eastern side, which is jammed with stalls vaunting clothes—that are not all size two—shoes, DVDs, souvenirs and jewellery. As you dig deeper into the warren, household stuff starts to appear, including some fantastic lamps, wood carvings, fabrics, kitchenware and more.

Fresh and delicious produce. : Stuart McDonald.
Fresh and delicious produce. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Diving further in again, you’ll find yourself ankle-deep in the wet market. if you can stand the heat, stay in this kitchen for super strong iced coffee, noodle soup, gloopy sweets and tasty snacks. And if you’re looking for a drill or an exhaust pipe, then keep heading westwards as that’s where you’ll find the hardware and essentials for your kitchen (and/or motorbike) in case you should decide to chuck it all in and move to Phnom Penh.

Inside the market, you are almost guaranteed to get lost, unless you have an uncanny sense of direction. Though recently re-organised to create more space, aisles piled high with clothes, shoes and handbags are distracting and disorientating. You may think you’ve seen that stall selling silk scarves before, but it’s difficult to be sure. As you battle through, whopping people with your bags of $1.50 T-shirts, it’s good to remember that “sum toh” means “excuse me” in Khmer—a useful little phrase.

The market really does have everything. : Stuart McDonald.
The market really does have everything. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Be suspicious of “genuine” antiques, gemstones and luxury watch brands—better to pay a price you are happy with because you like something rather than because of untested provenance. Clothing brands, however, may well be genuine, due to the large number of garment factories in Cambodia. Items which have small defects and are rejected for export often find their way onto market stalls, so it’s possible to pick up Gap, Banana Republic, Calvin Klein and Zara at knock down prices. We’re not sure about those Lexus boxer shorts, though …

For a marathon shopping trip, regular breaks are imperative to keep up your strength. If you can find an exit, the streets running away from the market square are bristling with coffee shops and bakeries. Drop in to Tini on nearby Street 450 for a coffee and a dash of air-con, or if you’re hungrier and feel like something a bit spendier, upmarket Khmer restaurant Kravanh is also on Street 450. Prefer a stiff drink? Climb up the stairs to gaze over the market from hipster Sundown Social Club above Street 440.

Spoilt for choice. : Stuart McDonald.
Spoilt for choice. Photo: Stuart McDonald

Opposite the market, larger shops sell similar goods at higher prices but with the benefit of air-con and changing rooms, a welcome respite from sweaty try-ons under a sarong. Once you are cooled and watered, you can dive back in for just one more necklace, notebook or, perhaps the best find of all, a watch featuring the portrait of Cambodia’s Prime Minister.

Contact details for Phsar Tuol Tom Poung (Russian Market)

Address: Hemmed in by streets 163, 440, 155 and 450, Phnom Penh.
Coordinates (for GPS): 104º54'52.73" E, 11º32'25.44" N
See position in Apple or Google Maps: Apple Maps | Google Maps
Admission: Free

Reviewed by

Nicky Sullivan is an Irish freelance writer (and aspiring photographer). She has lived in England, Ireland, France, Spain and India, but decided that her tribe and heart are in Cambodia, where she has lived since 2007 despite repeated attempts to leave. She dreams of being as tough as Dervla Murphy, but fears there may be a long way to go. She can’t stand whisky for starters. She was a researcher, writer and coordinator for The Angkor Guidebook: Your Essential Companion to the Temples, now one of the best-selling guidebooks to the temples.

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