Sihanoukville's downtown area is a decidedly local affair well away from the beaches, and while it might not be on the top of most travellers' sightseeing list, it offers a chance to glimpse the local ways of life.
At the centre of downtown is Psar Leu Market, which has been rebuilt in impressive fashion after the old market burned down in 2008. Psar Leu is where the locals come to shop and gossip, and its colourful confines are great for sampling local foods -- both fresh and prepared -- as well as picking up a cheap pair of shoes or a T-shirt.
The market is a great place to sample the area's abundant tropical fruit. Just around the corner from Psar Leu is the Western-style Samudara Market, which is the place to go for Western comfort foods.
Any motodop or tuk tuk driver will know Psar Leu (pronounced sah looh). If coming on your own, it's a couple of hundred metres up Makara Street from Ekareach Street. Look for the Total petrol station and turn right if you're coming from the Golden Lions or left if you're coming from the Hill.