Quieter Angkor temples

The Angkor Archaeological Park is littered with hundreds of temples that are not on the hordes’ itineraries, where you can take time, and space, to wander, appreciate and enjoy the handiwork of the Khmer Empire—without huge crowds. Here are a few.

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Three of them are Preah Palilay, Ta Nei and Banteay Samre, each unique in their own way and each worthy of a visit. Banteay Samre is the furthest away, past the gorgeous, jungle villages that line the road running east from East Mebon. The small temple has been beautifully restored, though its remote location means that it has unfortunately suffered from extensive looting.

Wandering Banteay Samre. Photo taken in or around Quieter Angkor temples, Angkor, Cambodia by Caroline Major.

Wandering Banteay Samre. Photo: Caroline Major

The path to Banteay Samre from the road comes from the north but you’re better to avoid the steps in front of you and turn east (left) in order to approach it from its proper direction. On the eastern side, you’ll find a long causeway and a cruciform terrace that is guarded by stone lions. It’s a lovely, tranquil spot and worth spending a moment before heading in through the gopura, or gateway. Inside you’ll find yourself within a small temple made of two laterite enclosure walls that surround the inner sanctuary. Unusually, the area between the outer and inner enclosure walls was once an internal moat. The stone work on the inner sandstone gopuras is gorgeous as well. Banteay Samre’s carvings depict scenes from the Hindu epic, the Ramayana, and are noted for being particularly fine as well as showing scenes not often found in ... please log in to read the rest of this story.