Visit pretty much any beach on east or north Bali and you’ll see dozens upon dozens of jukungs pulled up onto the sand. The jukung is the Indonesian fisherman’s staple vessel for getting around and you’ll see them all over the archipelago: some use nets, others troll and others still go long-line fishing.
In Amed it is straightforward to organise to go out on one for the regular fishing run. Agree on a price beforehand (your accommodation should be able to give you some guidence on this, but 200,000 to 300,000 rupiah seems to be the going rate) and be ready to get going at 04:30. Yes it is an early rise, but this is far less athletic than climbing Gunung Agung.
When we did this, we were on the water by about 05:00 and the seas were as calm as a millpond: so calm in fact that there was no point putting up the sail, so we slowly started motoring out to sea. We weren’t the only one — we counted at least 60 other boats doing the same.
Once the breeze started up a little we fed out a long line carrying 200 unbaited lures. It took us close to an hour, during which the sun slowly rose over Lombok and delivered fabulous views of Gunung Rinjani.
We kept sailing further out then, seemingly in unison, much of the fleet (or rather the gaggle) turned back to shore, and we were sailing in. The morning light across both Amed and the rising straight lines of Gunung Agung made the entire morning worth it.
We slowly sailed back in and pulled in the line, getting it back into the boat about 20 minutes before landfall.
The catch? One fish.
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