When is a waterfall not a waterfall?
Published/Last edited or updated: 29th January, 2017
Beng village, 12 kilometres east of Ubud is home to Kanto Lampo Waterfall, well we believe it is but there wasn’t any water flowing over the falls at the time of our visit.
Easily assessable, down a short flight of stairs, which lead to a pleasing shallow river canyon bordered with jungle trees and overhanging vines, the pile of flat jagged rocks where the waterfall is supposed to be is unusually at the side of the river, not along the river course and looks as though it’s been caused by a landslide.
Apparently that’s pretty much the story. The “waterfall” is a recent creation (sometime in early 2015) when landslides damaged a nearby irrigation channel, creating a new tourist attraction. Although farmers were happy with the potential new source of income, they were concerned at the loss of irrigation water. Local authorities have reassured farmers that it’s not a concern as there’s plenty of water in the dam feeding the flow, however it seems the stream can be turned on and off as the water is directed to the fields, which appears to have been the case on our visit.
Pictures of the falls on the banners near the car park look very attractive: the jumble of rocks causes the waters to fan as it cascades in various directions, making for a pretty scene (so we believe). At the bottom of the stairs a change booth is to the left, and the falls are just to the right — if they’re flowing. We met a group of tourists who’d spent a good hour walking up the river searching for the elusive cascades, so if you don’t see them, it’s an off day.
When they are in full swing, wade across the narrow waist-deep river and climb the opposite bank for the best front-on view. A small cave full of bats is nearby here too. The ticket both was unmanned, with just an honesty box (5,000 rupiah to enter), so there was no one to ask for a contact to check when water is flowing, you’ll just have to try your luck. Your trip won’t be wasted, as two more waterfalls are within five kilometres: Goa Rang Reng two-and-a-half kilometres north, and Tibumana Waterfall, five kilometres north.
Sally spent twelve years leading tourists around Indonesia and Malaysia where she collected a lot of stuff. She once carried a 40kg rug overland across Java. Her house has been described as a cross between a museum and a library. Fuelled by coffee, she can often be found riding her bike or petting stray cats. Sally believes travel is the key to world peace.
These tours are provided by Travelfish partner GetYourGuide.
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