Meet the fishermen
Published/Last edited or updated: 23rd November, 2016
The adjoining beaches of Wanokaka and Waihura share 4.5 kilometres of coastline separated by a wide river mouth where fishermen keep their boats. In low tide, you can cross the river and walk between the two.
Not the prettiest beaches in this part of Sumba, they’re nothing to complain about and still rather appealing (Sumba spoils you).
They are frequented mostly by local fishermen plying their trade in all sizes of craft. A daily fish market sets up each morning at Waihura Beach right next to Joni Homestay, and it’s interesting to see the boatloads of fish loaded onto motorbikes for delivery.
Wanokaka is the sight of a famous beach Pasola field. Early most mornings horses are exercised, as bareback riders gallop up and down the beach. In the late afternoon local kids gather for beach games. As it was Pasola time when we visited, this involved lobbing sharp pointed sticks at each other.
The word is there’s sometimes a good swell for surfing at Wanokaka (a right hander) and the rocky southern end of Waihura is good for swimming and snorkelling, but was too murky due to rain at the time of research for us to try.
A daily bus from Waikabubak takes you all the way to Waihura, passing Wanokaka (20,000 rupiah; 1.5 hours). Basic Joni Homestay is right on the beach at Waihura and is one of our favourite stays in Sumba. The traditional villages of Waigalli and Praigolil are within easy reach.
Sally spent twelve years leading tourists around Indonesia and Malaysia where she collected a lot of stuff. She once carried a 40kg rug overland across Java. Her house has been described as a cross between a museum and a library. Fuelled by coffee, she can often be found riding her bike or petting stray cats. Sally believes travel is the key to world peace.
These tours are provided by Travelfish partner GetYourGuide.
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