Just south of the market a road leads across the main road and on towards the big hill with a stupa on top.
Follow the road until the T-intersection, turn left and walk about 100 metres until a dirt road on the right appears and head up that. At the top is a modest stupa overlooking the entire town and large sections of farmland for kilometres around.
This is a great place to get your bearings before setting off on your own self-guided trek into the surrounding villages. That aside, it's a spectacular spot to soak in the scenery and to contemplate life as the sun sets on this magnificent river valley in the middle of nowhere. And content yourself with the thought that very few foreigners have enjoyed this view.
By Cindy Fan.
The Travelfish newsletter is sent out every Monday and is jammed full of free advice for travel in Southeast Asia. You can see past issues here.