Gomantong Caves

Gomantong Caves

Smelly home of birds' nests

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For centuries, Gomantong Cave has been renowned as a home of birds’ nests: specifically edible birds-nest-soup-type nests produced from the saliva of the white-nest and black-nest swiftlets.

Travelfish says:
The traditional system rigged up to collect the nests. Photo by: Sally Arnold.
The traditional system rigged up to collect the nests. Photo: Sally Arnold

Collectors here must possess a special licence, and only a limited number are issued each year through a tender system. This is a very controlled industry and harvesting only takes place a few times a year: February and August for the highly prized white nests, which can fetch 7,000 ringgit per kilo, and April and August for the lower quality black nests, with a market value of about 4,000 ringgit per kilo. Nineteen caves within the Gomantong system produce the nests, but visitors have easy access to only one.

The main cave system is divided in two: the more accessible Simud Hitam (Black Cave), and above, the larger Simud Putih (White Cave). The names refer to the nests produced in each cave. Simud Putih is not open to the general public, and a visit requires permission from the Forestry Department as well as technical caving equipment. Simud Hitam is an easy 15-minute walk from the carpark along a wooden boardwalk. The mouth of the cave beckons and inside the chamber opens to skyscraper proportions.

Exhibit A: Bird making a nest. Photo by: Sally Arnold.
Exhibit A: Bird making a nest. Photo: Sally Arnold

Then it hits you: the smell. It’s not just swiftlets who make their home here. The base of the cave is home to a mountain of bat guano and swarms of cockroaches. It’s eye-watering and rather icky.

Guides will point out a few other interesting cave dwelling critters who make their home here too. Some of the rigging from the nest collectors is suspended from the roof, but as it was not the season for collecting, we were unable to see the process. The rather slippery bat poo-encrusted walkway leads around the inside of the cave. You won’t want to slip, but you won’t want to touch the ... Travelfish members only (Full text is around 400 words.)

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Reviewed by

Sally spent twelve years leading tourists around Indonesia and Malaysia where she collected a lot of stuff. She once carried a 40kg rug overland across Java. Her house has been described as a cross between a museum and a library. Fuelled by coffee, she can often be found riding her bike or petting stray cats. Sally believes travel is the key to world peace.

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