Not far from the big-name attractions in the heart of the Rattanakosin historic district, Phraeng Phuthon Square embodies the more modest side of Bangkok’s heritage.
Born out of a major turn of the 20th century construction campaign initiated by King Rama V, attractive Sino-European shophouses line Phraeng Phuthon’s quiet streets. The Crown Property Bureau still rents them cheaply to locals, including many who trace their heritage to the Chinese immigrants who founded the Chao Paa Sua Shrine just up Tanao Road.
Secrets are meant to be shared. Photo: David Luekens
In recent years, authorities restored the aging shophouses with cream and teal paint, and officially declared them protected heritage buildings. In front of some of the more notable businesses, museum-like info boards were added to explain the heritage and products for sale in both Thai and comprehensible English, which makes the neighbourhood a lot easer for foreign travellers to crack than it used to be.
At the centre of the square sits a health clinic in a building that served as a prince’s palace until the early 20th century. On neighbouring Phraeng Nara, another century-old architectural gem formerly served as Talaphat Suksa Schoolhouse. Now housing a law office, the building’s long veranda and tall wood doors still display the original gingerbread carvings in faded olive green paint.
Before the restorations … Photo: David Luekens
In a corner of Phraeng Phuthon, a local man has run a classic car workshop for decades, leaving an early ’60s Peugeot and ’30s gangster-style Ford, for example, parked alongside the footpath. Other shops specialise in camping equipment, sewing machines, cutlery, uniforms and musical ... please log in to read the rest of this story.
Don’t miss the boat!
Please subscribe to Travelfish.org to read the rest of this article, or log in here.
Subscribing to Travelfish costs A$35 per year and it gets you access to more than 200 downloadable guides to specific destinations, fabulous discount coupons and 50% off our personalised travel planning service. Sign up here.
By
David Luekens.
Last updated on 4th September, 2017.
Popular hotels in Bangkok on Agoda
(416 reviews)
(20 reviews)
(514 reviews)
(371 reviews)
(326 reviews)
How to get there
Taxi drivers hardly ever know it by name, but Phraeng Phuthon and neighbouring Phraeng Nara sit in a central old city location. The neighbourhood is flanked by Bamrung Muang, Tanao and Atsadang roads, just north of Wat Ratchabophit and a km west of the Grand Palace. It takes around 15 minutes to walk here from either Khao San Road or Maharaj river ferry pier.
Location map for Phraeng Phuthon Square
Start planning your holiday today
Sent every Monday, our newsletter is full of travel advice, news & special deals. Read past issues.
Popular attractions in Bangkok
A selection of some of our favourite sights and activities around Bangkok.
Best places to stay in Bangkok
A selection of some of our favourite places to stay in Bangkok.
What next?
Browse our independent reviews of places to stay in and around Bangkok.
Check prices, availability & reviews on Agoda or Booking
Check out our listings of things to do in and around Bangkok.
Read up on how to get to Bangkok, or book your transport online with 12Go Asia.
Do you have travel insurance yet? If not, find out why you need it.
Planning on riding a scooter in Bangkok? Please read this.
Buy a SIM card for Thailand—pick it up at the airport when you arrive.
Browse the web securely while travelling with TunnelBear. Try with a 7–day free trial.