Bangkok by taxi, tuk tuk, motorbike taxi and city bus

Bangkok by taxi, tuk tuk, motorbike taxi and city bus

If there’s a single sensation that sums up Bangkok, it’s sitting in the back of a tuk tuk at three in the morning as the driver tries his hardest to reach terminal velocity while tearing down Ratchadamnoen Avenue. These three-wheeled workhouses join regular taxis, motorbike taxis and city buses to get millions of Bangkokians and travellers around the Big Mango every day.

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Taxis

Simply put, Bangkok has some of the best-value taxis in the world. Affordable, comfortable and widely available at any hour, your biggest concern is likely going to be the aggressive driving habits of often-overworked drivers who may try to illegally charge you a flat (read: gouged) fee rather than use the meter.

Bangkok’s taxis are not difficult to spot; Sukhumvit Road can look like it’s awash in Smarties as hot-pink, bright-yellow and sky-blue taxis make up high percentages of the perpetual traffic jams. If the red light in the corner of the windshield is turned on, the taxi is available to be flagged down. The meter starts at 35 baht and the price goes up in three-baht increments by either time or distance, depending on the traffic situation. If you use expressways, the passenger (that’s you) is expected to pay all tolls.

The meter will always be cheaper than a “flat fare” unless you’re taking a long trip to, say, Pattaya or Ayutthaya, in which case you’ll need to negotiate the fare before setting off. If a driver doesn’t want to use the meter, politely shut the door and wait for the next taxi. You’ll have better luck finding an honest driver by flagging down taxis as they pass or grabbing one at taxi line-ups (at BTS stations, for example). Avoid drivers who get out and prowl around Khao San Road and Sukhumvit Soi 11 on foot.

Some travellers have complained of meters rigged to charge too much, though we’ve yet to experience this. Drivers are supposed to fill any request within the city limits, but in practice they often refuse to go halfway across town during rush hour or otherwise deny fares for no apparent reason. Phone bookings can be made by calling 1681 (there are other companies, but that is our favourite), and calling ahead adds a 20 baht surcharge.

In recent years, ride-sharing apps like Uber and Grab Taxi have become fairly common in Bangkok despite the efforts of taxi companies and some city officials to ban them. While we’re not big fans of these, we can understand why travellers who can’t speak any Thai would use them instead of regular taxis after being repeatedly denied fares or finding it difficult to get a driver willing to use the meter. Not using the meter is illegal for drivers; under no circumstance would we take a non-meter taxi ride within Bangkok city limits.

Tuk tuks

The scream of the tuk tuk’s buzz-saw engine, the thrashing fairy lights hanging off the side and the frantic look on drivers’ faces all contribute to the invigorating sights and sounds of Bangkok. Especially tuned into touristy areas, tuk tuks are something that all visitors should try at least once.

Tuk tuk drivers tend to charge foreign travellers a bit more than a meter taxi would cost for the same route, which does not make sense. Always agree on a fare before you get on board. Drivers often start by asking for 200 baht for even a short ride and haggling is expected.

Touring the city by tuk tuk can be a lot of fun, but drivers who hang around Khao San Road and Silom are notorious for dragging travellers off on dirt-cheap “tours” that end up at some gem or souvenir shop where the driver gets a commission if you buy something. If a tuk tuk driver tells you the Grand Palace is closed, ignore them.

Pollution is another concern with tuk tuks. What, you thought sitting in an open-air vehicle surrounded by hundreds of idling cars and buses would be exciting? Also keep a strong grip on your valuables, as tag-teams on motorbikes occasionally snatch handbags from tourists obliviously caught up in their tuk tuk adventure.

Tuk tuks are used to carrying big loads. If you’re travelling with a few wash pans full of live eels and a bag of freshly slaughtered chickens, then tuk tuks are certainly the way to go. The number of people who can fit into a single tuk tuk is up for debate. Just remember: the more people you cram in, the more top-heavy it will become. Adding six drunken Westerners tends not to help matters.

Motorbike taxis

Orange-vested motorbike taxi drivers can be found on every street corner throughout Bangkok. Generally used for short trips—say, from a BTS station down to the end of a nearby soi—they’re easily the fastest and most dangerous mode of transport in the city.

Fares start at 20 baht for a quick trip and it’s rare for a motorbike taxi ride to be long enough to cost more than 100 baht. Look for signs posting common fares in Thai where the driver hang out; even if you can’t read the words you’ll get an idea of the price ranges. Unlike tuk tuk drivers, most motorbike taxi drivers rely on volume of passengers and don’t usually have the patience to try any serious scams on foreign travellers.

Motorbike taxis are fast. It’s perfectly normal for them to whip between cars in traffic jams, up on to the footpaths and over to the wrong side of the street. A lot of accidents (and knee reconstructions) are attributable to these guys—do use the spare helmet that every driver is required to carry. But if you’re in a jam and need to get somewhere quick, motorbike taxis can be a lifesaver.

Public city buses

The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) has a cheap and comprehensive, if confusing, bus system that covers the entire city via hundreds of routes. Most buses are marked only in Thai, so it’s best to go by the numbers. Conductors do not speak much English and they’ll often be surprised to see foreign travellers coming on board.

If you plan on exploring by bus, invest in a bus map (available in English at most 7-eleven stores) that marks most of the routes. The privately run website, Transit Bangkok, also has solid info on city bus routes.

Reviewed by

David Luekens first came to Thailand in 2005 when Thai friends from his former home of Burlington, Vermont led him on a life-changing trip. Based in Thailand since 2011, he spends much of his time eating in Bangkok street markets and island hopping the Andaman Sea.